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Flåm and the fjords

We leave Oslo on the train to Myrdal. Chuck is very excited that we are not on a road trip as usual and he doesn’t have to drive!

The scenery on the train is magnificent, we are glued to the window. It makes its way up the mountains, where we see people cross country skiing outside, it appears that there are no roads and residents use the train and skis to move about! We are a bit worried about the amount of snow!

In Myrdal, we transfer to the small historical train to Flåm.

We stopped at the spectacular Khofossen falls and disembark to see them from close. Magical music begins playing and appears a dancer dressed in red. What a nice surprised impromptu show!

Back on the train we make our way to Flåm and to our cozy hotel.

We decide to take a walk along the fjord to discover the area a bit before dinner. The mountains, fjords and waterfalls surrounding us are spectacular!

We had booked a table at the Aergyn Viking themed restaurant and celebrated our anniversary with a lovely plank sampling of a delicious 5-plank dinner paired with local beers.

The next day we are on a cruise through the fjord to Gudvagen to walk through time in a Viking village.

Again the fjords and cliffs are spectacular. It is hard to describe and the photos do not do them justice but it brings a sense of peace and contentment.

The combination of water and fjords are very powerful for me. It is cold and windy but no matter, we stay outside for the best view.

The village of Flåm from the cruise
One of the many, many waterfalls along the way.

Arriving at the Viking village, we learn a lot from our guide about how they lived including that those horns on their helmet are just a myth, they could never have fought with those. Chuck’s mighty Viking helmets are a myth!!!!

She also explains the value of dyeing the wool and that the Colour purple was the most expensive and harder to achieve as the flower had to be brought in – maybe that’s why the Viking’s colour is purple!

Chuck decides to do a Vikings ritual to the god to help his mighty Minnesota Vikings next season 🤣

Hnefa tafl
I write my name in Rune
Inside the chief house

We then decide to take a hike along the beautiful river to get a different perspective of the Kjelfossen Falls which is top 20 in height in Europe. We fill our water bottle from this pristine cold water…yum!

We take the cruise back to our hotel and enjoy the beautiful view one more time, noticing new falls and mountain goats.

First thing in the morning, I go to the tourist information to try to get tickets to Stegastein – the lookout over the fjord Naeoroyfjrod.

We lucked out and get on the bus up, up, up! What a view!

The lookout made of local timber and glass
View of Naeroyfjord direction – the sea

We then go to hike up Brekkefossen (near Flåm) and get an exceptional view of the fall, the town and harbour. We learn that milkmaid took those sherpa steps up even further to deliver milk. Up to 15 km!

On the way up the steps
At the top!!!!

The hike takes us amongst rolling farms and yet another perspective of the area.

Simply gorgeous. No wonder it is a UNESCO designated site.

The next day we take the cruise back to Gruvanden, then a bus to Voss with a stop at a scenic view of the valley, then a train to Bergen and off to the next leg of our trip.

Norway – Oslo

Back last winter 2023, when Dominique was visiting us, we chatted about turning 60 next year.

Somehow the subject came to how we both wanted to visit Norway and Scandinavia and I floated the idea of going together with my husband Chuck, Dominique having just recently lost her wonderful husband Alain.

A few weeks later, we were still messaging about it and the idea took root.

Here we are now, landing in Oslo for a 3 weeks tour of Norway – all 3 of us very excited!

At the Toronto airport
First dinner in Oslo

On our first leg, we were spending two nights in Oslo so only had one full day and made the best of it.

We did a self guided city walking tour and walked by several beautiful buildings.

Parliament in Oslo
Royal palace

We walked the Norsk Folkemuseum, where we observed multiple reproductions of houses and buildings hundreds of years old. We learned they were all made of pine and were untreated, yet survived beautifully the years.

We visited an amazing exposition of the Polar Ship at the Fram museum. We were able to descend deep into the hull to really understand how the men on ship lived.

Arctic expeditions and exploration is a topic very dear to Chuck so this was a real treat.

We all decided to walk up the beautiful opera house. What a spectacular building!

From the street – we walked up the slope side
Overlooking the harbour on the grounds of the opera house.

The Nobel museum was really impactful. It focused mainly on the Peace prize recipients and we were able to read about the many amazing change makers over the years.

The display of the medal as well as the stand/picture/description of each winner was very eye opening.

A beautiful Forget me not displayed to meaningful reminder everyone to remember history

There was a large display on the art of listening to each other that particularly resonated with me. Something I’m working on.

We also learned that the artist who designed the Nobel medal is the same who built the amazing sculpture on Human Relations in a local park – Gustav Vigeland.

So many amazing depiction of human interactions!

We walked up to the Royal Palace

Rounded up the day with a nice meal and a Pink Gin for me!

Tomorrow we embark on our train journey across the land and to Fråm and beautiful fjords!

Viet Nam part 2 – Da Nang and Hoi An

We check into our hotel in Da Nang in the evening at the Draco Hotel situated in a really cool neighbourhood with great restaurants, pubs and a beautiful cafe across the street within a short walk to the beach. And a fabulous rooftop bar and pool!

That evening we ate burgers and grilled cheese at the restaurant across the street called Bikini Bottom with a SpongeBob theme. Very funny.

In the morning, our guide took us to Monkey moutain – Nui Chui Moutain where the 67 metres lady Buddha stands. The complex was built between 2004-2010 mainly from private donations.

He explains that most temples in Viet Nam have a happy Buddha in the front, then lead Buddha in the middle, the lady Buddha on the right and the Karma Buddha in the left. In Vietnam, they worship Lady Buddha and Happy Buddha mostly.

The massive Bonsai garden there is donated and maintained by volunteers and is worth a lot.

Our visit to the golden bridge was a bit of a surprise. We didn’t realize that the bridge was part of a sort of an attraction park. The area is being developed by the Son Group, owned by the 2nd richest man in Viet Nam. They rent the land from the government and have rebuilt what used to be a French village during the occupation, but that was destroyed. They have now rebuilt a simili Paris at the top of the mountain with the most famous buildings that can only be accessed by 5 cable cars built by Austrian. The mountain stands at 1400 metres above sea level. In the winter, it is mostly cloudy, which was unfortunate for us.

It gave us a feel of Disney world – particularly Epcot.

Interesting fact – the highway leading up to the base of the mountains are built and maintained by the conglomerate and are in perfect condition.

The golden bridge was built in 2014 and they used a women Vietnamese architect who did a fabulous job. But it was built as an attraction for tourist. It represent a strand of silk held by hands to take you to heaven. A bit disappointing.

The village is composed of reproduction of things like the Notre Dame cathedral, all the hotels bear names of regions in France and they now have added buildings representing other countries like a German beer garden, a section for China etc…he asked is I want to go inside the “Notre-Dame cathedral”….euh no. I have been in the real one 🤣.

They also have a garden called Jardin d’ Amours with multiple garden structures.

On the side they also have fantasy park which is a park with rides.

Everything is clean and all staff wave and guide you as you walk by.

He told us that there can be up to 10,000 visitors per day in the winter but double that in the summer. currently Chinese are not allowed in the country but when they reopen the borders they will be everywhere.

This was not really a very Vietnamese experience.

We move on to Marble mountain. They now had to stop extracting marble as the mountain was going to cave in. But we could visit the grotto at the top where they have built temples. Very pretty. I was happy to find several mortal and pestle and chose one as a souvenir.

The guide then takes us to the Ho Chi Minh museum and other war museums in the same compound. This guide is not as knowledgeable and can not answer some of Chuck’s questions 🤣

It is very interesting to read the signs and see the photos and artifacts from the other side than the American. Uncle Ho is definitely revered here, although I wonder what he would think of the way the country has developed squarely embracing capitalism.

That evening we make our way to the beach just before the sunset. Beautiful beach with lots of surfers and waves.

Later we enjoy a very very local lunch – we had no idea what we were ordering. We believe chuck was having BBQ chicken organs skewers. Very chewy!

The next day we transfer to Hoi An and meet our guide at our new hotel – the Delicacy Hotel. Very lovely hotels and beautifully appointed room. Once again the staff is amazing!

Our visit of Hoi An is truly excellent! This is our favourite Vietnamese area so far. Much less hectic and quaint and full of history.

Here in the old quarters, the river overflows each year during the rain season by at least a few feet so every shop needs to move all their wares up to the second floor by October.

We learn that this area was completely destroyed during the war and that it is thanks to a polish immigrant who came to help rebuilt that they maintain the flavour and traditional architecture of the area. There is a canal that separates the old quarter. In the 1800s, one side of old quarters was established by Japanese and one side by Chinese as the guide tells us these two people do not like to live together.

Nowadays most have left but there are still descendants here. Some of the houses opened to the public are built with solid dark wood and have several very old artifacts and dishes and are still owned by the original families.

One of the highlights is visiting the silk worm factory. We learn that it was the Vietnamese who invested the process with worms and not the Chinese. And that the Chinese that were selling silk in medieval times were making their ware with Vietnamese silk. It is a very short process from north to cocooning which is the silk. We see worms at various stages of their life – 7 days and 22 days. They must grow mulberry trees as that is the only thing they will eat.

7 days old
22 days old
Now forming cocoon

We learn that there are 3 types of silk – the natural (raw) one which feels a bit like linen and will show some imperfections due to knots that they must make with the one strand. Up to the refined silk which is the glossy one that is made with several strand from multiple cocoon. The mixed silk is usually made of silk with other material like cotton.

We are taken to the showroom and I fall in love with a magnificent Silk tunic representing Hoi An. I purchase a tailor made one with the natural silk black pants – excited!

We continue our tour and visit another temple but learn again that the majority of Vietnamese in the centre are not religious. They believe in Karma and that you reap what you sow.

They value their ancestors and judge people based on how they treat the elders in the family. No one has pension here so the children are responsible for paying to support their parents. Here they do not all live together as most elders remain in the countryside where they are established but the children move to Hoi An or Da Nang to work and raise their families.

They also do not have healthcare so again they must cover all expenses. The schools are also not free – not really a government for the people here.

We also learn from Trien that there is severe discrimination by the government for any descendants of anyone who sympathize with the American or was in the south army. For example, his father was in that army so he will never be allowed or able to get a government jobs (like be a teacher). His niece received a scholarship to a university in Moscow and they had to bribe the official to pass the background check to allow her to go.

Here they also do not keep track of the day they are born, only the year. They prefer to celebrate the day that people die as a way to remember them. The government recently required them to declare birthday so a lot of people chose January 1st but other February 2nd, March 3rd and so on. He tells us that his parents have no idea of the date that their 8 children are born.

We have lunch at the Hoi An street food restaurant and I finally try Cao Lau (only available in the old quarters) and Mi Quang. I absolutely LOVE Mi quang. I will definitely figure out the spice for that sauce. It is amazing! They assemble the food right in the middle of the restaurant!

We come across this hilarious bar where I drop off Chuck to go get my tailored pants.

In the evening we meet up with our new very good friends Rick and Monica who are also touring Vietnam and have dinner at the Hai cafe. We thoroughly enjoy sharing each other’s impression of VietNam so far and the places we visited and have a wonderful evening! We pledge to find a way to visit each other again!

Next day is our last day here as we fly to Bangkok early evening. So we pick up my tailored tunic and the linen pant suits I also ordered from a different store.

We enjoy lunch at the famous morning glory restaurant. They have a list of teas to solve all ailments :). Now off to the airport….back to Thailand!

PS: I have become addicted to ginger – honey tea.

PPS: while we saw many older white men with young Thai ladies (mostly scandinavians) in Thailand, we were happy to see that this doesn’t seem to be the case in Vietnam. We do notice much more Caucasian tourists from many different countries and of all ages – you can hear so many languages spoken everywhere.

PPPS: We have discovered that getting money from an ATM in Thailand is very easy so no need to bring cash. But in Vietnam, cash exchange is king. And best to have USD to exchange ATM are not as prevalent and not all of them accept the Canadian Interac debit cards. So it is much harder to secure local cash which is how everyone wants to be paid.

Final days: Azenhas do Mar + Sintra + Lisbon

We leave Porto for a the atlantic coast near Lisbon, for a small village called Azenhas do Mar. It is near Sintra but also overlooking the sea which we are looking for!

Our first stop is in Nazare to enjoy a magnificent view and the freshest fish + seafood we have had. We find a restaurant facing the beach and order the sardines and shrimps – both we are told were fished this morning – and you can tell.

We walk down to touch the water and feel those huge waves attack the beach! The cliffs to the north are spectacular, reminiscent of Etretat which I loved!

Arriving in Azenhas do Mar, our apartment is well beyond our expectations. Right on the edge of huge cliffs with massive waves crashing non stop and breathtaking views. We spend time walking the trails by the cliffs (not too close to the cliffs of course).

We take our lives in our hands in the evening, walking in the dark to the nearby restaurant down by the beach…thank god for flashlights on our phones! You can see the windows of the restaurants on this pictures…all the way down!

The view is amazing and the food exceptional, but mostly the service is out of this world. Our server is incredibly knowledgeable and attentive – we love it. We see fishes being delivered right on the beach to the restaurant, it doesn’t get fresher than that!

Back we go in the dark, to our apartment, with the sounds of waves crashing in – what a night!

Sintra

The next day, we are off to Sintra for a walking tour of the old city and our PCR Covid test, which are required to get back in our country.

Our guide Franscico is a wealth of information about the moorish times as well as the influence of the Templar in the region. He also informs us that the Roman did not make it there and that there is no trace of their influence in that area.

Sintra is litterally built on an extinct volcano which mean….more hills! We learn so much with him, it is hard to describe everything!

He brings us to the original pastry store where we enjoy a Quesidijas…cinnamon and eggs delight!

The highlight is definitely the Quinta da Regaleira. This estate was built more than a hundred years ago by a collector of the Templar documents who incorporated so many of their symbols into the architecture, it is hard to take it all in.

The templar ritual was held in the large well to ensure the new candidates would pass, they had to find their way in the dark through several tunnels!

Unfortunately the estate was sold to a japanese group in the mid 1950 and some of the items were sent to Japan but it was taken over by the city in the 70s and restored to its original beauty. All the collection of historical Templar documents though were sold to the States and are now in the library of Congress.

From the distance we can also see the ancient moorish castle built on the mountain top.

We very much enjoy our tour, now off to the hospital. This Covid test could not have been easier. A drive through where we give our passport to check in and then move on to the testing station where the nurse administer the test from our car windows. Results will be sent via email and SMS within 24 hours…very efficient.

On our way back, we decide to stop at Cabo da Roca, which is the most western point in Europe – majestic!

Again a spectacular cliff with big waves and high winds where we stand more than a 100 feet from sea level.

Back towards our apartment, we stop at the well known Apple Beach to have excellent oysters by the beach – captured this morning, once again the freshest!

Over to our apartment, we sit in the garden to enjoy another spectacular sunset while sipping the beautiful red wine we bought from Dario back in Alejento….Life is good.

We regrettably leave the next morning but we stop again in Sintra to take a tuk tuk to the top of Castle Pena to visit the grounds. We are sad that we do not have time to visit the moorish castle as well but the car must be back in Lisbon by 1PM…

Lisbon

Back in Lisbon, we discovered the museu of cerveja just near our hotel in the large square. We enjoy hearing the Serbian gather and get ready for the big qualifying game against Portugal. A large crowd is singing and dancing as they make their way to the stadium. We decide to find a pub with NFL games on but it is so packed, we can not stay….obviously never heard of Covid there!

We go back to the square by the water to enjoy some italian food and watch the games that is on in every patio…unfortunately Portugal looses but it was a good game.

Our last day in Lisbon is a Monday and unfortunately most museums are closed. We decide to still make our way to the Belem area to see the famous Tower and the Padrao dos descobrimentos – both spectacular structures.

Lucky for us the nearby maritime museum is open and we can trace the glorious history of portuguese navigators and explorer. Very interesting.

Chuck with his favorite explorer

We then take a cab to visit our last place – the Castillo of Sao Jorge. Once again, amazing views and history.

On our way back down (yes it is up a hill), we stop at the Chapito restaurant for a late lunch. It is listed as one of the best terrace in Portugal and it is well earned! Bonus is that the food is excellent and the weather is fantastic – we are priviledge to be sitting there at that time with this sun!

This is the end of an amazing trip! Back home to Canada tomorrow with perfect memories!

Lisbon + Evora

On our first day, we got lost in Lisbon – isn’t that the best!

First we had to deal with very long line at passport check – but why? Once we finally made it to the front, the border officer did not look at vaccination records, Covid test or mandatory locator forms…go figure!

Lisbon for one day!

A city of 7 hills – one seems to always be going uphill!

We discovered though that it is always best to look down – mosaic tiles everywhere on the sidewalks but also on the walls instead of stucco or siding 🙂

We stumbled upon a beautiful big flea market, stunning views of the city and a nice terrace for dinner with a view of the sunset….until a bunch of tourists came to take pictures 🤦‍♀️.

One thing that I didn’t love – I had forgotten how european smoke right at their table…one bite – one puff….incredible!

EVORA

Next day we are on our way to Evora after picking up the car. A nice 90 minutes drive and we are in a quaint little town surrounded by roman and medieval walls – full of history.

We are picked up shortly after check in by Dario from the Coelheiros wine estate….it is much more than a win estate!

The new owners purchased the estate in 2015 as their retirement plan from Brasil and began the transition to fully organic and sustainable farming.

They have 2000 acres composed of 40 for grapes, 20 for walnut, 20 for olives and the rest if their beautiful cork forest. They have 1000 sheep that move from section of the land based on the season to eat the grass and contol the weeds, they have strategically located bat and certain bird houses to control the bug population, they have moved to a varied planting in between the rows of grapes to atract the bugs to those flowers rather than the grapes…everything is interconnected and intentionally done. Amazing!

We learned that Portugal is still the number 1 producer of cork and that all trees are inventoried and controled by the state. It takes 30 years for a cork tree to be matured enough for harvest and then cork (which is the bark removed from the trunk) can only be harvested every 9 years. Fully sustainable and regenarative, the entire harvest is used for a variety of products – nothing is wasted.

We also learned that their portuguese grape wines are grafted on the original cabernet sauvignon trunk from France and the trunk is attached to american root system to fight a worm that came from America with import decades ago. This is true of almost all wines in Portugal.

Dario invites us for a wine tasting and while the wine is good, the olive oil is out of this world! Of course they are sold out….

Back to town for a nice dinner at Pateo (outdoor patio although chilly) where we have a nice conversation with retired Portuguese who come to Evora by train regularly for a getaway from Lisbon and a young couple from….Oakville!

The following day, we have a walking tour with Joao for 3.5 hours….so interesting

We learn that the Franciscan were a well established group in the 1200 and lived in poverty with a small church surrounded by the cemetery of villagers.

Once the royal family decided to spend a lot of time in Evora, they established a castle across from the monastery and decided to build a bigger, richer than the one that was there. Because the Franciscan refused to stop practicing, they built that church around the small one. Consequently it is the church with the biggest arches to support the ceiling in the world!

In that process, they dug up a lot of tombs and bones which angered the Franciscan. They decided to stack as many bones and skulls inside the chapel as a reminder to the royals that everyone returns to that state at the end.

During our walk, we come upon the garden of love where the statue of Vasco de Gama, Chuck’s favorite explorer.

João takes us to the highest place in the town where the original Roman temple was built during the second century BC.

To reach it, we pass by the cathedral of Evora which he tells us is the oldest cathedral in the world where you can witness pre-gothic architecture.

We are able to climb the stairs up the tower to the roof with a stunning view of the city.

Back to a terrace as we scout the town looking for Sardines for Chuck for dinner 🙂🍺

Found it!! Excellent fresh grilled sea bass for me and sardines for Chuck!

Good day!

Tomorrow, we are off to Porto!