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Madeira, Portual – the east coast and the mountains
MOUNTAINS
We have booked a group hike to Pico Areiro in the hope to hipe the stirway to heavens. We begin with a long hike to the top. We go by beautiful views.
We finally make it to the top and the beginning of stairway to heavens to almighty winds that closes down the Stairway to heaven path. While it is disappointing, we could not imagine hiking in those conditions.
The amazing levadas: 2200 km of levadas were built by hand over 100 years to irrigate this while island from the mountains. Very forward thinking. This is what created this amazing agriculture here.
EAST AND SOUTHEAST
The next day we join our small jeep tour to visit the east coast. We are paired with a couple from France near Versailles – he is italian and she is vietnamese. Both speak French but not english so I am the interpretor for this tour 🙂
Stunning view of the Nun’s Valley – remote village with little access to anything.
Santana, Faial and the baskets hike – gorgeous views. We also hike one of the amazing levadas: 2200 km of levadas were built by hand over 100 years to irrigate this while island from the mountains. Very forward thinking. This is what created this amazing agriculture here.
Miradour San Lorenzo – beautiful cliffs and rock formation. Why are people risking their lives for a photo??
And just like that we are off to the Algarve!
Madeira, Portugal March 2025
MADEIRA 2025 – short recap
We finally arrive in Madeira after many years having it on our bucket list. We decided to make Funchal our home base and book an apartment on the main street close to the water on airbnb and booked day trips with local organisations. Our first one was to the west and south west of the island with Nature connections which was a jeep tour with maximum of 4 people. That works well for us.
Our guide is great, local and very knowledgeable. We discover that this island was discovered and colonized by Portuguese. There were no people living here before.
We were very happy that we were not driving ourselves!
Cabo de Giroa – Camara de Lobo glass viewpoint. We had the bad luck to arrive at the same time as the buses from the cruises. The guide tells us that it is really becoming a problem here as they invade for a few hours but do not really spend here or contribute to the economy. Because we are on a small tour, we have the luxury to wait until they leave and then I convinced Chuck to walk on the glass floor. He is becoming very brave. The view is beautiful!
We then make our way through the forest basically on dirt road. It is very crazy!
to Seixal and the natural Pool and black sand beach – reminiscing of Maui’s black beach but much softer sand.
Off road in the forest with Ricardo and his antique 4×4 popemobile – the eucalyptus trees that are taking over the forest. Huge trees!
We also drive on small roads with a big cliff on one side and through waterfall!
We finally reach the magical and mystical Fanal forest where star wars was filmed. The fog is very dense and the trees really magical.
Porto Moniz and its natural pools – beautiful intricate rocks formation.
Ponta del sol: “coup de cœur” – beautiful small town with and arch bridge and a gorgeous beach and view to the sea.
His comments about how the cruises are negative to to the island were interesting. Massive boats come and takes over the island and do not contribute to the economy. They don’t eat or stay or spend anything other than on trinkets.
FUNCHAL
We enjoyed a nice dinner and Chuck chose those popular meet on stand up skewers.
The next day, we take the cable car up to the midway.
We visit the tropical garden with the history of important people told with tiles and walk by the Charles Murray’s fountain!
Then down the street in the wicker basket which recreates how people used to bring produces and materials up and down those big hills.
Walked 10km up and down hills in the town from Monde to the Lido promenade and treat ourselves to a nice lunch at The Ritz outdoor terrace.
We do a lot of walking in Funchal to discover the city and also visit the famous market where farmers and fishmonger sell their wares.
Amalfi, Atrani and Positano
The boys’ flight was delayed for 2 hours so we enjoyed a few Birra and panini on the patio at the airport in Naples. Our driver was there on time to pick us up and drive us to Atrani. Unfortunately, it was dark by the time we were driving so we could not take in the scenery but the narrow, very winding road was very reminiscent of the Mountains of North Scotland or the road to reach Chamonix in France. We were glad that Roberto was driving!
Once at the villa, Antoinette showed us around and opened the door to the most amazing terrazzo! This is even better than the photos!
We take in the view and then walk down the 50 steps to the road to go to this restaurant on the water. We meet Andrea, one of our most friendly server. He informs me that I can not have parmigiana for my pasta with clams and mussels. Every time someone puts parmigiana on fish, an Italian die 😳 They are all most welcoming and the food is amazing!
The next day, the ones who are up by 6:45 are witnessed to a fabulous sunrise which unfortunately does not last long. Clouds are rolling in and the waves are huge!
Marc-Andre and I leave early to walk over to Amalfi and enjoy a coffee and the freshest orange juice (spurmate al arancia). In front of us, in all its glory is the cathedral. Absolutely beautiful! But even more touching is seeing these older couples all dressed up, climbing all these steps, very slowly, to attend mass.
Back to the apartment, the rain does not let out….a few of us walk back to Amalfi to enjoy a lunch and I have a very flavourful and comforting vegetable soup. Pasta with mussels for chuck!
We walk around a bit to discover a small market where we buy salami and cheese as well as beer and wine. We find a vegetable vendor where I buy tomatoes, onions and pasta to cook at home so we can enjoy the terrasse tonight. Antoinette has warned us that Sunday afternoon and night, most stores and restaurants are closed so we will eat on our patio. Unfortunately it is mostly a rainy day so we enjoy the rain with a good book from the patio.
During a short reprieve, Marc-Andre, Mathew and I go down to the road to walk a bit in Atrani to discover the beautiful views of the cliffs from different angles as well as the church and the small back alleys with the never ending staircase.
On Monday we wake up to more rain and our tour to the lemon farm is unfortunately canceled. Disappointing since we walked to the town in the pouring rain but we sit at our favorite cafe to enjoy our freshly pressed orange juice and coffee, while Alex and Mathew order an English breakfast of bacon and eggs.
As I walk in Amalfi, I find a local marketto and fish vendor so I will come back to buy supplies to cook a nice fish dinner on the patio rather than walk around in the pouring rain again.
When we go back the fish market is closed! Italian have a very loose idea of time and things seems to close unexpectedly. We end up at the butcher and buy veal scallopini, 3 of the biggest amalfi lemons I have ever seem and supplies for pasta and salads. But first we walk to Atrani to try to get a “lemoni sorbetto” but discover that everything is closed because Denzel is filming Equalizer 3 in the area!
Back at the apartment we are treated to an amazing double rainbow!
Dinner is a treat, everything is so fresh and bursting with flavour!
Tuesday morning, the sun is finally out and we make our way to the ferry to spend the day in Positano. The view is spectacular of course and the 25 minutes ride is very picturesque.
While Positano is beautiful and as with the other towns, the houses are pretty and the views as we climb the twisting road is nice, it is much more touristique and commercial than Amalfi. I do love the street with the wines overhead!
We walk to the top and find this overpriced restaurant with an amazing view. Well worth it!
Who would have thought…I bumped into a mom from Mississauga I hadn’t seem in over 10 years!….what are the chances!
Back on the ferry to return to Amalfi in a rougher seas than in the morning. Once in the town, we do some last minute shopping, and again, the store I was going to buy some ceramics souvenir is closed! Why?!?! Nevertheless we find new little alleys to have fun!
And yes mathew is using a hat from our apartment 🤣
We walk back to the apartment, barely missing some unexpected rain and decide to still go for a dip in te Mediterranean. While it is chilly, it is surprisingly confortable once we jump in!
Final night in Atrani….we drive to Puglia tomorrow.
Beautiful Porto
We leave Evora mid morning on our way to Porto but first we look for the monolithe that our friendly guide Joao recommended. These are rock structures dating 7000 years ago…the oldest ones in Europe. There are no clear explanation for their presence but it is thought that they marked a place of gathering for spiritual celebrations. One always has a sense of awe when walking amongst structures such as these….
We arrive in Porto and check in our beautiful apartment overlooking the Douro River and just steps from the famous Ponte Luis.
We love the atmosphere at night, typical of european cities with their terraces full with tourists, sounds of live music and smell of local food – the perfect evening!
The next day we have a 3-hour private walking tour with Orlando – a local from Porto. We walk up a steep hill to meet him in the city centre…Porto is a granite hill, the city is built on a big rock.
Orlando explains that this makes any construction or digging very difficult, that coupled with the fact that one can easily unearth historic sites, development are often completely which stalled. The city is currently undergoing a massive metro contruction projects and there are sounds of jack hammers everywhere as well as traffic jams worthy of Toronto!
Orlando takes us to magnifient viewpoints of the city and river and explains the history of the city that has never allowed nobles to live or rule here. It is a city that was ruled by bishops and where ordinary people have lived – there are no castles.
Interestingly, It has the most beautiful McDonald in the world. For once the mega American company chose to maintain and respect the Art Deco of the cafe building that it took over. Beautiful stained glass!
Porto had very little moorish invasion so it has not influenced the city at all, unlike Lisbon. There are signs of Roman occupation including signs of the typical roman walls throughout old Porto. This is a city that is just starting to be reborn as it has been neglected for decades. There are fewer people who live in Porto and therefore several houses and apartments are abandonned. The impact of the dearth of tourism caused by Covid is evident. An interesting fact to me is that Porto decided a few decades ago to save its architecture by creating the bank of material. Any building in old Porto that shows signs of being vandalized – for example tiles removed on the exterior – will have all its architecture elements removed: exterior tiles, door knobs, roof tiles and more! They are then stored at the bank and when any owners no of a house in old Porto wants to renovate, they can come get all this material free of charge and reuse it. It is amazing all the material they have.
The small, narrow and hilly streets are also a treat – so beautiful with their cobblestones and plants spread out by the owers on the street. Orlando explains also that Porto had a serious heroin problem 20 years ago and the city decided to create centres to help with addiction as well as operating restaurant schools to provide training and employment to those looking to heal themselves.
It is a very religious cities with numerous churches spread out throughout but it also has a dark past of persecuting the jews and forcing them to become “new-christian”. Its cathedral is also the beginning of the Camino de Santiago trail and you can see the yellow arrow signs leading the hikers to Santiago – 248 km!
In the afternoon, we take old Tram 1 to the sea and the beach on Orlando’s recommendation. We enjoy a beautiful lunch on a sunny afternoon by the beach!
We then walked the bridge to Gaia to visit the Taylor Fladgate’s cave. Very information and beautiful setting – so much of this area’s culture and history is connected to this Port wine!
The next day, we are off to a special treat with a tour of Douro with Manuel. He repeats that he wants to show us the authentic Douro and its history, not the big producers who are all the same…and he does! What a day we had…
The drive to the small town of Pinhao (heart of Douro) was spectacular and showed promises of an amazing day. We begin with a boat cruise where Pasquale tells us tales of the development of the region and the hard working people who developed this trade.
Villagers who risked their lives to take the big barrels of port wine to Gaia on small viking looking boat on a wild river that could be very shallow as well as dangerous with rocks flying from the riverbanks. They began filling the barrel only at 75% to ensure that if the boat sank, the barrel would float up to the surface so the next boat could salvage them. This is before the several dams were built in the Douro to control the water levels.
Here, we also hear of the terrible worm that decimated the region and the clever solution to use american root stock to save the wine grape plants. History goes back to the 17th century and it is the oldest region to produce regulated wine. Here also they use nature to help protect their wines. They have rose bushes throughout to attract the bugs and warn the winmakers of a potential bug invasion. They use olive trees for the same pupose but also as boundaries between estates and between different varietal of grapes. They use eucalyptus trees along the riverbank because they repel bugs. We learned about the schists stones that are the secret to their wine grapes who attach themselves to these porous rocks which are a reservoir of water of sort. The roots grow stronger as they nagivate the rocky terroir.
We taste homemade parma from wild pig fed strickly on acorn, local cheese and olive paste as well as a delicious white port and tonic. Excellent!
Next we are off up the mountains to the top of the Douro valley. A treats as most tours only stay close to the river. The view is magnificent! It is a road that was named one of the most beautiful in Europe and no wonder why!
We are on our way to visit a small port producer who have been there for 100 years and meet the son who is slowly taking over from his father. we see the inside of a port barrel and taste several of their table and port wines.
The next winery is magical and beautiful. We are treated to an amazing lunch with excellent wines on a terrace overlooking the estate. Amazing Portuguese risotto! Who knew. And What a setting!
Again we meet the new generation taking over from his father but this time, it is the 11th generation, still living on the estate! He shows us a port that has been in barrel since 1848. He bottled 5 bottles 3 years ago and sold four but kept one ti show the color changes. A cool price of 4000Euros! He is so interesting and entertaining capping up a fantastic day with the other tourists in the group from Sweden, Chicago, Denmark, South Corea and Dallas.
One of the best tour we have had!
Sibenik
We leave Dubrovnik early for Sibenik as we plan on making a few stops.
Our first stop is in the town of Ston. What a great decision!
We are amazed with the wall complex built in 1313 to protect their salt factory. We are told that at the time 1 kg of salt was worth the same as 1kg of gold!! We visit the small factory and see the ingenuity to harvest that salt with the same process as years gone by. Very little automation. They use evaporation….It can be harvested 3 times a year and takes 10 days each time.
We hike the walls surrounding the city but will not have time to walk the more than one hour to the next town. The walls are very narrow and steep! What a feat!! Hard to believe their are holding a marathon tomorrow on the walls. Yikes!
We have a meal at Bakus on the recommandation of our host in Dubrovnik. The town of Ston is renowned for its crustaceans fishing.
A beautiful meal of oysters, marinated anchovies and salted sardines. Chuck finally gets his sardines!! All fresh, local and very good. We get a starter of fish pate. Love it!
Great view of the bay and all the traps for mussels, oysters etc..
The walls from the road leaving the area.
Our next planned stop was the town of Split but after driving to the main area of the city along the beach and seeing the invasion of cruise boats, tourists and commercialism, we decide to not even stop and keep driving. What a difference from Ston!
We arrive at our Hotel Bellevue, very well located on the water besides the old town and after dropping our bags, go for a walk in the old town to check it out a bit before our reservation at the 1 Michelin star restaurant Pelligrini.
Located right besides the Basicilica in the old town, the service at that restaurant is absolutely next level. Waiters coordinate depositing your dishes so that everyone at the table gets it at the same time! The sommelier is very friendly and knowledgeable and our waiter tells us a bit about the history of the restaurant and the town.
This restaurant was opened, is owned and operated by the chef and is only opened for 11 years. Most of the staff are in their 20s. 
Flavours are well matched and the food is inventive but what will stay with us is the number of personnel on the floor constantly looking after their guests and their attention to details. Whenever a guest goes to the washroom, one of the staff will come re-fold the napkin on the table, one of them even using only a spoon!
The next day we decide to forgo the boat ride and drive ourselves to Krka which is very close. We first go to the main area nearest the bottom of the national park and again are overwhelmed by the number of buses and tourists. Although the falls are beautiful, The 2 km trail to see the main waterfalls is packed and we move at a very slow pace.
After a chat with one of the staff at the information desk, we decide to get in our car and drive the 45 minutes in the hills to the top of the park where the biggest waterfall are as well as some archeological site of Roman ruins.
We arrive to nearly no-one there and follow the signs to where Emperor Frantz Joseph and his wife Elizabeth had come to see the falls.
Upon continuing down we come to a belvédère where we have a great view of the falls.
We noticed some other trails further to the left and decide to go explore.
The trail is exceptionally steep and made entirely of gravel which can be slippery. But we continue on. Thoughts of having to climb it back start creeping in!!
We arrive at the end where the path simply stops at a cliff with a view to the side of the fall.
We begin the climb back at a good pace. Our hiking legs are now kicking in but we are completely out of breath at the top and have to sit for a moment! The heat of more than 30C does not help!
We then drive the very short distance to Burnum and the site of the recently discovered 1st century Roman legion training centre and barracks. It was built under emperor Augusta to quell a coup by one of his general.
Back home exhausted, sweaty and just in time for our 2 hours guided walking tour of Sibenik.
We meet Dario at the fortress of Baronne way above the city, driven there by our friendly driver ( thank god)…his knowledge of the area is spectacular as is the view from there. We have a particularly privileged view of the St-John castle that is currently under re-construction. Both of the castles were built in the 16th century under the Venetian regime to prepare for the ottoman attacks.
We can also see the whole city, the coast as well as the third castle, St-Michael which was the first one built.
That is where the king of Croatia wrote from in 1066 confirming the existence of Sibenik back to that year.
We are then driven back to the centre of city for a hugely informative walk around the city, Dario pointing out some of the 27 churches of the cities and their different architectural type.
We begin with the fortress of St-Michael where Brian Ferry just held an outdoor concert, and where some of the outdoor walls were used for the Games of Throne background scenes.
Again the view to the river Krka is beautiful. It is the river that separate Croatia in 2.
We see the bridge where the Serbs located their tanks to bomb the city in the 90s war.
We are treated to a visit to the Basilica of St-James where we are told it was the first time the “montage” technique was used to built the coupole, similar to LEGO, the structure is assembled ahead of time and then numbered to be re-assembled up at the top. It took 150 years to build this basilica using men and horse power to hoist stones weighing several tonnes.
We get behind the scene views because our guide’s wife is the conductor of the choir here.
The stairs to upstairs are built to enable the light to filter down below.
First time ordinary people were depicted in a basilica.
We finish with the monastery where one of the 3 most important libraries is located, holding some of the most ancient books of Croatia’s history as well as the only functioning organ built in the 1700s.
Along the way, Dario points out how much the medieval people loved their cats and dogs, building into their walls drinking receptacles. 😀
As well as a medieval water cistern used to hold 27,000 litres that is now turned into a cafe-bar. Interestingly, the restaurant we went to last night is built on its roof!
We finish a perfect day where my Iphone health app tells me we climbed 67 floors, with the town’s specialty: mussels. We learned also today that mussels love a mixture of fresh and salt water which they find in the mouth of the Krka river in the bay of Sibenik!!
Time for bed!!
Croatia: day 2 and 3: Plitvike Lakes
Day 2 and 3: Sept 17-18, 2018
We arrive midday in Plitvike Lakes, a famous national parc and check in our villa. We drive back to have lunch towards a small town but come across the Baca Caves and decide that we should explore them. We have lunch at a nearby local restaurant…vegetarian options are few and far between here but we make do…Chuck really likes the local beer 🙂
Back at the cave, we are joined by a group of Germans and some Brits. The guide takes us up to the higher cave opened to the public. Temperature inside the caves is always 9C no matter the season and humidity 100%. Two types of bats live in the cave and we spot some right away shortly after entering.
She explains that archeologists have found mementoes proving life in the medieval times as well as animal remains from 20,000 years ago…yes no typo, back in the ice age. They have unearthed the squeleton of a cave bear that would have been more than 3 metres high and weighing over 700 tonnes. Bigger than the grizzlies and the polar bears. The have also found cave lions and a cousins to rhinoceros in those caves.
The scenery is spectacular and she turns the lights off at some point to show what complete darkness actually means….the perfect representation of pitch dark….
Chuck and i LOVE our helmets! Especially since I hit my head….
Back at the villa for a dinner onsite and off to bed for the big hiking day tomorrow.
The next day begins earlyish at 8:30 and we get to the park ready to board bus at 9:30AM. We decide tp start with the lower lakes loop per the recommandation of Ivy at the villa. We are swamped by large groups of tourist, mostly from Asia….it is a selfy party!!!
This park is mainly about the waterfall and the turquoise water. The lower lakes do not disappoint although we find a striking ressemblance to lakes in the Ontario and Quebec cottage country.
At the end of the hike, we get to the boat pick up that will bring us back to mid point.
We then begin the hike up the hill and the highlight of the day…what I called the ’circular waterfalls’. For many minutes, we walk and are able to see this combination of falls from several different angles.
We continue upwards to the top and after a short break, we decide to forgo the bus ride down and instead, we walk back to the bottom. All in all, my app is indicating 18,000 steps, 12 km and most importantly, 47 floors!!! That is some elevation. Feet and knee survive very well which is great!
We make it back to the hotel for a well deserved shower and beer. A great day.
I feel that the recommandation we found online to take a 2-day pass for the park is completely unnecessary. A brisk walk for 4-5 hours will do the trick. Glad we chose to only stay one day.
Off to the coast tomorrow…can’t wait!
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