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Hiking in Gros Morne
We get ready for the 4:30 hour drive across central Newfoundland to Bonne Bay in Gros Morne. Thelma sends us with our coffee mugs filled and homemade muffins for the ride. About halfway there, we see cars stopped on the road….There is a moose crossing the highway very calmly, first one!
We arrive at the Bonne Bay Inn and are pleasantly surprised by the location as it is perched on the side of the road overlooking the bay and just steps from Woody Point and the discovery centre. Perfect spots to spend a few nights in the area.
We immediately set out to hike the Tablelands trail. The trail is fairly easy but on rocks small and big so watch your step. Halfway up, we come upon lots of snow and must find the less soft area so as to not sink in. The landscape is very unique, with its yellow rocks as far as the eyes can see. A good hike to stretch our legs and of course make snow angels 👼
We are back at the Inn for dinner and are treated to a minke whale swimming in the bay right in front of us! The Inn has a lovely lounge for the guests, a dining room and a bar. The first place where we stay with so much common area to relax on comfy chairs, and bonus, a laundry room accessible to their guests free of charge….we love it!
The next day we set out mid morning for our main hike of the area: Green Gardens Trail. It begins as we climb in tablelands rocks for a few kilometres, but quickly takes us down to the valley on a steep descent through beautiful forest. We then climb back up to the cliffs where we reach the stairs to the beach. We decide to continue on for 1.5km but the remaining of the trail is closed. We pass by beautiful lookouts and landscape as well as some local sheep quietly grazing up at the top.
Ready for the hike back, preparing ourselves for the big ascent.What comes down must come up as they say!! A roughly 12 km hike in 3:30 hours. We feel very accomplished and were rewarded with beautiful views!
Back at the Inn for a shower and we then make our way by foot to Woody Point where we visit the Galliott studio and cafe that we read about in the Globe and Mail and have lunch at the local pub. Great music and a LP carpet…all is breaded as usual but we are starving!
We spend the rest of the afternoon reading our books and relaxing at the Inn, topping the evening with a light dinner in the dining room with a view, where we now spot a pair of harp seal swimming about accompanied by very persistent seagulls!
The next morning we leave for Rocky Harbour for one night as it will reduce our drive up north by an hour and we have the Cruise at the Western Brook Pond.
We stop on the way to the Southeast Brook falls short trail. A beautiful hike in the forest opens up to a cascading falls and we are treated to a rainbow overlooking the far section of the falls. Gorgeous nature again!!
At the Western Brook Pond, we have a 3 km hike that takes us to the harbour. What fabulous vista at this famous landlocked fjord with very entertaining and informative guides on the boat. Chuck is sitting beside a lady from Vancouver who feels the need to talk constantly…imagine Chuck 😂
Lots of beautiful waterfalls, cliffs and formation in the rocks with their own name, like this one: “the tin man”.
This 2-hour cruise is awesome! Back to find the Bambury Hillside chalet where we learn that the whole town will have water shut off tomorrow morning for repairs….we plan to leave early!
But first tonight we will dine at the Black Spruce restaurant in nearby Norris Point, another recommandation from the Globe and Mail.
We go to the Gros Morne Cabins stores to get snacks for the game tonight and we are impressed by those colourful cabins right on the water. This is where we should have stayed!!
Over at the Black Spruce, the dining room has a expansive view overlooking Bonne Bay and we are pleasantly surprised by the originality of the menu and the excellent flavours of our meal. A very tasteful roasted cauliflower soup with a Parmesan crisp to start followed by a squid ink fettuccine with lobster and saffron cream. Chuck opts for the scrumptious beef tenderloin with creamy sea truffle mash potatoes.
All and all, one of the best meal we have had on the island. Well worth the drive! I get very pretty blue mussel shells earrings at the downstairs stores. Youpi!
Back at our chalet to watch the very disappointing Raptors game 2 😭. Leaving Gros Morne in the morning.
2 nights in St-John’s with an “s”
We begin our 2 weeks trip to Newfoundland with our landing in St-John’s landing mid afternoon. After picking up our rental car from Avis we make our way easily to our first home here, The Murray Premises Boutique Hotel.
We are pleasantly surprised with convenient free parking right in front of the hotel and a quaint reception area.
We decide to begin our hiking right away and head for the long path along the water up to signal point. Absolutely beautiful views of the city as we hike up and several stretches where Chuck finds it much too close to the edge 😂
We are also excited to see our first of many icebergs!
Our Fitbit indicates that we covered 12km that day and 18,000 steps!!
After visiting at the top a bit, we head back down via the city on a steep decline which turns out to be much harder on my knee!!
Back in the city, we head to Trapper John’s for the screeched in ceremony. We are greeted John who was a very colourful fellow with lots of stories.
We discover that this involves 4 things. We must eat something from Newfoundland which turns out to be bologna or what is known as a Newfoundland steak. We must have a shot of screech rum. Which is Jamaican rhum bottled here in Newfoundland. We must repeat a local saying about old friend being the support for our sailing forward, very lovely. Then we must kiss the king of Newfoundland which of course is a frozen cod. We perform all these steps to John’s multiple stories and receive our certificate making us honorary Newfoundlanders!
We then head to a local pub on George St for some cod and local music.
On Sunday we head south to Cape Spear, the easternmost point in North America and hike part of the eastern coast trail toward Maddox Cove.
We are treated to beautiful cliffs and more icebergs. The scenery is reminiscing of the northern Scotland we visited a few years ago. Very windy coast!
Our stop for lunch is at the Murray Landscaper Grounds cafe (farm to fork) as featured in an article in the Globe and Mail that we had read. Excellent vegan food in a nice, bright and airy dining room.
We then drive up to Stiles Coves to hike up to the beautiful cliffs and waterfall.
Well worth the drive/hike. A little bit down the road we stop at the end of the Pouch Cove trail in Flatrock to take a look at the flat rocks, the waterfall in Big River and the stunning waves crashing on those rocks. Loved it!!
We then make a stop at the Quidi Vidi brewery for a few sampler of the local beer, one of which made with iceberg water, before heading back home.
Our Fitbit today says 14 km, 20,500 steps.
Well earned dinner at Exile, the restaurant part of the Jag hotel owned by the cousin of one of Chuck’s friend. What an awesome decor and atmosphere with multiple posters of music legends.
Martine's food and places 