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Algarve, Portugal March 2025
ALGARVE WEST – CARVOEIRO
We are spending a week in the Algarve and choose the lovely small town of Caveiro as our home base, located to the east of Faro. We opt to rent a car from Lisbon and drive down. Very easy drive on main highway. I found this small apartment on Airbnb that has a beautiful rooftop terrace facing west and overlooking the small beach.
On our first day, with the weather on our side, we book a boat tour of the coats right on the beach. We explore the coast from the water between Carvoeiro and Miranda – a must: caves, caves and more caves.
The Seven hanging Valley trail – 11km hike up and down cliffs and along the coast – tested Chuck’s fear of heights. Spectacular cliffs, so many stairs and dirt trails. From Miranda to Celiantes and back.
Silves: With the high winds and rain on and off, we decided to drive 20 minutes north to the city of Silves to visit the moorish castle ruins. It is a lovely town to stroll through with many narrow cobblestone street and cafe. First we visited the museum of archeology which did a great job at demonstrating the evolution of the area and reproducing some of the architecture from fragments they found.
Next we walked to the castle. The structure was very impressive and we could still walk along the higher palissades. Too high and narrow for Chuck’s liking 🙂
There was great views of the surrounding area.
We also visited the chapel which we built over a mosque. It was particular in the fact that there were very little gold adornments, which is unusual compared to all the churches we visited in Europe. The ceiling was very high but made of wood. The “chemin de la croix” was special in that each station was made of a ceramic display. Very lovely.
We had a lemonade at the Cafe Rosa at the main square, opposite a cute fountain and a building with rose tiles covering the walls.
The next day we finally hike the Carvoeiro boardwalk which is right out of our front door – more cliffs and beautiful rock formations.
Another day, another hike! We hiked the Ponte De deidade boardwalk in Lagos : spectacular views, cliffs and rock formations. Another 6.5km.
We experience many very windy days during our stay which precluded us using that beautiful terrace but we still enjoyed the weather.
Grand Beach Finale: Praia Felasia – absolutely spectacular! The combination of cliffs/beach/sea is really special. The cliffs are unlike the other ones we have seen, like sculptures. We can hike the top and down the long stairs and up at the other end. Just wow!!
I go on my own exploring the city which is very hilly.
Carvoeiro beach, view from our terrace and the wind!!
Final day, we drive back to Lisbon to spend a day there. It is one of my favorite city, beautiful city to stroll up and down staircases in the street and listening to outdoor singers.
A lovely lunch at Taberna which is reknowned for local food. No reservation and no coming inside until they have a table for you.
Madeira, Portugal March 2025
MADEIRA 2025 – short recap
We finally arrive in Madeira after many years having it on our bucket list. We decided to make Funchal our home base and book an apartment on the main street close to the water on airbnb and booked day trips with local organisations. Our first one was to the west and south west of the island with Nature connections which was a jeep tour with maximum of 4 people. That works well for us.
Our guide is great, local and very knowledgeable. We discover that this island was discovered and colonized by Portuguese. There were no people living here before.
We were very happy that we were not driving ourselves!
Cabo de Giroa – Camara de Lobo glass viewpoint. We had the bad luck to arrive at the same time as the buses from the cruises. The guide tells us that it is really becoming a problem here as they invade for a few hours but do not really spend here or contribute to the economy. Because we are on a small tour, we have the luxury to wait until they leave and then I convinced Chuck to walk on the glass floor. He is becoming very brave. The view is beautiful!
We then make our way through the forest basically on dirt road. It is very crazy!
to Seixal and the natural Pool and black sand beach – reminiscing of Maui’s black beach but much softer sand.
Off road in the forest with Ricardo and his antique 4×4 popemobile – the eucalyptus trees that are taking over the forest. Huge trees!
We also drive on small roads with a big cliff on one side and through waterfall!
We finally reach the magical and mystical Fanal forest where star wars was filmed. The fog is very dense and the trees really magical.
Porto Moniz and its natural pools – beautiful intricate rocks formation.
Ponta del sol: “coup de cœur” – beautiful small town with and arch bridge and a gorgeous beach and view to the sea.
His comments about how the cruises are negative to to the island were interesting. Massive boats come and takes over the island and do not contribute to the economy. They don’t eat or stay or spend anything other than on trinkets.
FUNCHAL
We enjoyed a nice dinner and Chuck chose those popular meet on stand up skewers.
The next day, we take the cable car up to the midway.
We visit the tropical garden with the history of important people told with tiles and walk by the Charles Murray’s fountain!
Then down the street in the wicker basket which recreates how people used to bring produces and materials up and down those big hills.
Walked 10km up and down hills in the town from Monde to the Lido promenade and treat ourselves to a nice lunch at The Ritz outdoor terrace.
We do a lot of walking in Funchal to discover the city and also visit the famous market where farmers and fishmonger sell their wares.
Final days: Azenhas do Mar + Sintra + Lisbon
We leave Porto for a the atlantic coast near Lisbon, for a small village called Azenhas do Mar. It is near Sintra but also overlooking the sea which we are looking for!
Our first stop is in Nazare to enjoy a magnificent view and the freshest fish + seafood we have had. We find a restaurant facing the beach and order the sardines and shrimps – both we are told were fished this morning – and you can tell.
We walk down to touch the water and feel those huge waves attack the beach! The cliffs to the north are spectacular, reminiscent of Etretat which I loved!
Arriving in Azenhas do Mar, our apartment is well beyond our expectations. Right on the edge of huge cliffs with massive waves crashing non stop and breathtaking views. We spend time walking the trails by the cliffs (not too close to the cliffs of course).
We take our lives in our hands in the evening, walking in the dark to the nearby restaurant down by the beach…thank god for flashlights on our phones! You can see the windows of the restaurants on this pictures…all the way down!
The view is amazing and the food exceptional, but mostly the service is out of this world. Our server is incredibly knowledgeable and attentive – we love it. We see fishes being delivered right on the beach to the restaurant, it doesn’t get fresher than that!
Back we go in the dark, to our apartment, with the sounds of waves crashing in – what a night!
Sintra
The next day, we are off to Sintra for a walking tour of the old city and our PCR Covid test, which are required to get back in our country.
Our guide Franscico is a wealth of information about the moorish times as well as the influence of the Templar in the region. He also informs us that the Roman did not make it there and that there is no trace of their influence in that area.
Sintra is litterally built on an extinct volcano which mean….more hills! We learn so much with him, it is hard to describe everything!
He brings us to the original pastry store where we enjoy a Quesidijas…cinnamon and eggs delight!
The highlight is definitely the Quinta da Regaleira. This estate was built more than a hundred years ago by a collector of the Templar documents who incorporated so many of their symbols into the architecture, it is hard to take it all in.
The templar ritual was held in the large well to ensure the new candidates would pass, they had to find their way in the dark through several tunnels!
Unfortunately the estate was sold to a japanese group in the mid 1950 and some of the items were sent to Japan but it was taken over by the city in the 70s and restored to its original beauty. All the collection of historical Templar documents though were sold to the States and are now in the library of Congress.
From the distance we can also see the ancient moorish castle built on the mountain top.
We very much enjoy our tour, now off to the hospital. This Covid test could not have been easier. A drive through where we give our passport to check in and then move on to the testing station where the nurse administer the test from our car windows. Results will be sent via email and SMS within 24 hours…very efficient.
On our way back, we decide to stop at Cabo da Roca, which is the most western point in Europe – majestic!
Again a spectacular cliff with big waves and high winds where we stand more than a 100 feet from sea level.
Back towards our apartment, we stop at the well known Apple Beach to have excellent oysters by the beach – captured this morning, once again the freshest!
Over to our apartment, we sit in the garden to enjoy another spectacular sunset while sipping the beautiful red wine we bought from Dario back in Alejento….Life is good.
We regrettably leave the next morning but we stop again in Sintra to take a tuk tuk to the top of Castle Pena to visit the grounds. We are sad that we do not have time to visit the moorish castle as well but the car must be back in Lisbon by 1PM…
Lisbon
Back in Lisbon, we discovered the museu of cerveja just near our hotel in the large square. We enjoy hearing the Serbian gather and get ready for the big qualifying game against Portugal. A large crowd is singing and dancing as they make their way to the stadium. We decide to find a pub with NFL games on but it is so packed, we can not stay….obviously never heard of Covid there!
We go back to the square by the water to enjoy some italian food and watch the games that is on in every patio…unfortunately Portugal looses but it was a good game.
Our last day in Lisbon is a Monday and unfortunately most museums are closed. We decide to still make our way to the Belem area to see the famous Tower and the Padrao dos descobrimentos – both spectacular structures.
Lucky for us the nearby maritime museum is open and we can trace the glorious history of portuguese navigators and explorer. Very interesting.
We then take a cab to visit our last place – the Castillo of Sao Jorge. Once again, amazing views and history.
On our way back down (yes it is up a hill), we stop at the Chapito restaurant for a late lunch. It is listed as one of the best terrace in Portugal and it is well earned! Bonus is that the food is excellent and the weather is fantastic – we are priviledge to be sitting there at that time with this sun!
This is the end of an amazing trip! Back home to Canada tomorrow with perfect memories!
Lisbon + Evora
On our first day, we got lost in Lisbon – isn’t that the best!
First we had to deal with very long line at passport check – but why? Once we finally made it to the front, the border officer did not look at vaccination records, Covid test or mandatory locator forms…go figure!
Lisbon for one day!
A city of 7 hills – one seems to always be going uphill!
We discovered though that it is always best to look down – mosaic tiles everywhere on the sidewalks but also on the walls instead of stucco or siding 🙂
We stumbled upon a beautiful big flea market, stunning views of the city and a nice terrace for dinner with a view of the sunset….until a bunch of tourists came to take pictures 🤦♀️.
One thing that I didn’t love – I had forgotten how european smoke right at their table…one bite – one puff….incredible!
EVORA
Next day we are on our way to Evora after picking up the car. A nice 90 minutes drive and we are in a quaint little town surrounded by roman and medieval walls – full of history.
We are picked up shortly after check in by Dario from the Coelheiros wine estate….it is much more than a win estate!
The new owners purchased the estate in 2015 as their retirement plan from Brasil and began the transition to fully organic and sustainable farming.
They have 2000 acres composed of 40 for grapes, 20 for walnut, 20 for olives and the rest if their beautiful cork forest. They have 1000 sheep that move from section of the land based on the season to eat the grass and contol the weeds, they have strategically located bat and certain bird houses to control the bug population, they have moved to a varied planting in between the rows of grapes to atract the bugs to those flowers rather than the grapes…everything is interconnected and intentionally done. Amazing!
We learned that Portugal is still the number 1 producer of cork and that all trees are inventoried and controled by the state. It takes 30 years for a cork tree to be matured enough for harvest and then cork (which is the bark removed from the trunk) can only be harvested every 9 years. Fully sustainable and regenarative, the entire harvest is used for a variety of products – nothing is wasted.
We also learned that their portuguese grape wines are grafted on the original cabernet sauvignon trunk from France and the trunk is attached to american root system to fight a worm that came from America with import decades ago. This is true of almost all wines in Portugal.
Dario invites us for a wine tasting and while the wine is good, the olive oil is out of this world! Of course they are sold out….
Back to town for a nice dinner at Pateo (outdoor patio although chilly) where we have a nice conversation with retired Portuguese who come to Evora by train regularly for a getaway from Lisbon and a young couple from….Oakville!
The following day, we have a walking tour with Joao for 3.5 hours….so interesting
We learn that the Franciscan were a well established group in the 1200 and lived in poverty with a small church surrounded by the cemetery of villagers.
Once the royal family decided to spend a lot of time in Evora, they established a castle across from the monastery and decided to build a bigger, richer than the one that was there. Because the Franciscan refused to stop practicing, they built that church around the small one. Consequently it is the church with the biggest arches to support the ceiling in the world!
In that process, they dug up a lot of tombs and bones which angered the Franciscan. They decided to stack as many bones and skulls inside the chapel as a reminder to the royals that everyone returns to that state at the end.
During our walk, we come upon the garden of love where the statue of Vasco de Gama, Chuck’s favorite explorer.
João takes us to the highest place in the town where the original Roman temple was built during the second century BC.
To reach it, we pass by the cathedral of Evora which he tells us is the oldest cathedral in the world where you can witness pre-gothic architecture.
We are able to climb the stairs up the tower to the roof with a stunning view of the city.
Back to a terrace as we scout the town looking for Sardines for Chuck for dinner 🙂🍺
Found it!! Excellent fresh grilled sea bass for me and sardines for Chuck!
Good day!
Tomorrow, we are off to Porto!
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