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Day 8 : last day in Naxos and day 9 in transit

We wake for our last day to high winds again.  It is really unfortunate that the weather is not cooperating for our last day in the Greek island of Naxos.  The hotel, pool and beaches are gorgeous and it would be wonderful to be able to take advantage of them. Last night at the restaurant, we are told that the hotel has lost some of its electricity due to the heavy rain and winds. It is reminiscent of St-Lucia !!!

Nicholas, one of our waiters tells us that last year the was so much salt in the rain water and sand blowing that they has to scrape it off the electricity lines to be able to get them to function again.
This morning most of the electricity is back. At the reception, they confirm that the blue star big ferry will be leaving for sure but the high speed that are built similar to catamaran may not. They recommend that we book our ticket on blue star at 6pm arriving at 11:30 in Athens rather than the 7pm high speed arriving at 10 so we go ahead with that. We are informed that the business class and seat numbers are sold out but we can try upgrading on the boat.
We spend the day reading and getting ready since our attempts to go for was are canceled as we feel like we will be blown off our feet.
We take an early taxi into Hora with the plan to walk up to the gate of Apolo and do a bit of shopping.
When we arrive there, we check our luggage and attemp the walk but we must walk on a pier that connects the small island where it stands and the waves are so high that they crash over the pier soaking everything. We settle with pictures for afar.

We walk in the very pretty old village and meet a very nice shopkeeper who tells us where to buy the best honey from the mountain. It must be thyme honey. The absolute best!

Back for a pizza by the port. Those Greeks love their pizza and pasta. I guess Italy is so close!

We find out that the boat is an hour and a half late so it will leave at 6:30 and arrive at 12:45 in Athens. The high speed is of course running on schedule. Oh well!!

Once the boat finally arrive we are told that we can not upgrade and must find a seat somewhere. We end up on the top deck partially covered where the strength of the winds and waves are very evident. It is freezing.  A group of young nomad musicians break into an impromptu concert complete with a bunch of young people dancing and singing. It is quite entertaining.

But when they pull out 2 bagpipes around 11:30 and start the whinny sounds, it is less funny. Now everyone would like to sleep!
We arrive at the hotel at 1:30 and in bed by 2. Wake up call at 4:30… Arghhhh
The flight to Istanbul  is without complications but we arrive to find our flight to Toronto is delayed by an hour and a half. The airport is much bigger than anticipated but I just want to sleep! Now we really want to be home. We hope to be able to sleep in the plane.
Chuck has been booked on a flight to montreal tomorrow morning for a meeting. Yikes!
All and all a wonderful trip!

Day 7 in Naxos

The This morning is every bit as stormy as they predicted. Rainy, windy and cloudy so we take our time with breakfast and getting ready. This morning at breakfast, I learn that Karimara is the greek greeting for good morning.
We leave with our rental car to visit some of the typical villages that were pointed to us, the Kytron distillery and the Zeus summit.
We drive towards Ano Sagkri and a temple in that area. After driving on a dirt road, we find instead the archeological site dating back to 500 BC, Yiroulia Sangri. On the same ground, a christian church was built as well. Great view from up there.

We continue on to Halki for the distillery. We find it in a small alleyway for pedestrians only. All the tools and machinery from 120 years ago are on the display as well the what they call “citron” which is not at all the same as our lemon.  It is a very large sour lemon and we discover that the liquor is made of the leaves and not the fruit! We get to taste the 3 different types, green for the sweetest, yellow for the most bitter and the transparent one in between. The transparent one is my favorite.

From there we continue on through Filoti on our way to Zeus cave and summit. The legend says that after Zeus was born on Mykonos, he was brought here to hide from the gods while growing up. We turn right at the sign and come face to face with a very skinny road going up a cliff and no guardrail. I am so glad I am not the one driving…Chuck is wishing he was not driving! Cars coming from the opposite direction would be really bad!
Finally we arrive at the spot where the road ends and there is a small area to leave the car. We walk to the towards a fountain and a sign that point up a very narrow trail with a gate that is close. We decide to risk it and open the gate and start climbing. I definitely am not wearing the proper shoes! The view is fantastic! Luckily while we are there, the sun is out and it is not raining….

We make our way down just as the rain starts and begin the drive down on the skinny road.
Our plan is now to make it up to Rotondo, the restaurant perched up high with the best panoramic view towards Paros.
Again up a narrow road, we finally arrive there. It is quite spectacular but windy and some rain so we have to eat inside.

The food is also excellent but when we want to pay we are informed that it is cash only but not to worry, we can come back anytime later on. Don’t change your plans, just come back when you can…Wow! We are thankful that we needed to find an ATM as we end up in Apiranthos, the village of marble.  It is so neat to go up the marble stairs and walk on the small roads. Again the view there is wonderful.

Naxos’ reputation as the island of many typical village is well earned. One could spend a few days driving up and down discovering new villages and tavernas and enjoying a great view atop the hills.
We return to the hotel and settle in to watch the storm…strong winds, lots of rain…no sunset tonight! Glad we enjoyed that yesterday.  We review the weather forecast with the receptionist for tomorrow and it appears that they expect some rain but a milder and nicer day with wind of only 6 in strength…what does that mean? Well strong winds but not the end of the world, we should be able to get out on the ferry back to Athens…cross our fingers. We are told that the ferry left tonight and the wind speed is 7 so we should be good.
We are told that the Cyclades are named after the gods of wind and that is a good example. Within the span of one hour, the wind can change direction 3 times. We witnessed the gods of wind in action tonight!

Day 6: we leave for Naxos

We wake up today to a cloudy sky and strong winds. They die down quickly and a bit of cloudiness still let’s through amazing light. I would think this would be a fabulous place for an artist to create

 
We enjoy our breakfast again on our terrace as I struggle with the wifi. 

 

Time to leave and we make our way to the port to await our high speed ferry on Hellenic.  Although the view was spectacular, I am not unhappy to leave.

We look forward to Naxos and resting on the beach for a few days. I am not sure if I would have wanted to stay in Santorini for a whole week as most people were doing that we met. Maybe not in Oia anyways, the view, caves and cliffs are spectacular, but it so busy and no beaches. The space is such at a premium that all the pools are very small, and there are definitely too many weddings! I forgot to mention that yesterday’s new word was Yamas for cheers but do not say it if you are not looking in each other eyes!
As we wait for our transfer minivan to arrive, we chat with the luggage guy who is from Romania and he tells us about his country. Sounds like we have to go to Carpathian. The region where the Danube meets the Black Sea and creates a delta. The region with Dracula’s castle!! He speaks 5 languages and just graduated with a degree in hostellerie.  Every summer he interned in a different country and has already experienced so much! Very neat!
We take the same road down to the port.

I am happy with the fact that the ferry ride is half the time but the business class lounge is definitely not as nice as on the blue star and not worth it. No electric outlets or wifi so I can not charge all my electronics or upload yesterday’s blog again. Drag!
The view from the back of the boat is again very nice. There is a dog trapped in a cage, barking constantly. Not happy!

We arrive in Hora,Naxos and again the disembarkation is quite something! Here we see the blue that Greece is so famous for. I do not know if it is the place or the temperature that brings this colour to the sea but it is magnificient.

 

Our ride to Pyrgaki is about 30 minutes, We drive though a very different scenery of hills and valleys and small village.  We arrive to Finnikas hotel via a dirt/sandy road to a beautiful hotel right on the beach.  We are greeted by a super nice receptionist who comes greet us at the taxi and are served Kytron which is a liquor made here on the island similar to Limoncello. The method of distillery and the liquor dates back to ancient Greece!

 

She explains all the different things to see on the island including the nearby secluded beach that you can reach only on foot and are within the nearby cedar forest. The sunset from the “Hawai” beach is supposed to be spectacular.  As she takes us to our suite, she points out that all the hedges and bushes are herbs that are used by the restaurant. We also come to a 900 year old cedar with a vine growing on it. The legend is that the marriage with the vine is what is keeping the cedar alive for so long.

After a delicious lunch at the restaurant where I experience the best fish soup I have ever had.

we settle in our beautiful suite and I go for a dip in the salt water pool and a walk on the beach while Chuck reads his book on the balcony.

 

Although it is quite windy and cloudy, we decide to walk to the secluded beach (about 10 minutes) and are well rewarded.
The beaches are spectacular, at the bottom of a small cliff, the sand is is great and the view awesome. Chuck decides to go for a dip amongst the strong waves and I take pictures. We stay until the sunsets and make our way back to the hotel.

We are excited to try the famous catch of the day at the restaurant for dinner. Each day, local fisherman bring fishes caught that day for this treat. The chef is a greek-canadian and specializes in fish. The waiter brings to the table a plate with 3 fishes that were caught that day for us to select. We try the Sfirava. They are from the grouper family and he tells us about each of the variety which are local to the mediteranean. The fish is then grilled for a few minutes and then put in the oven with a bit of olive oil and salt. It arrives at the table whole and the waiter then prepares it for us. It is accompanied with a butter-lemon sauce and local vegetable. Absolutely delicious. We do not leave one bite!

We are now told that a storm is coming and that Sunday they are not certain that the high speed boat will run. We have to decide tomorrow which ferry to book that will have more chance to leave!
We rent a car to go explore the island tomorrow and visit the Mountain where Zeus is believed to have been raised and hidden from the god as a child as well as the Kytron distillery.
Off to bed we go 🙂